One last post as I reflect on teaching Advanced Costume Design last term. I developed another mini-project that disrupts the “paper project” model and encourages students to explore design with some tight parameters. The following assignment prompt has been accepted for the USITT Teaching Archive. It was inspired by the conversation I had with a first year student last year while I was working on Bernada Alba, who wanted to understand my process for integrating a large scale printed fabric into a design.
Abstract:
As designers, when something is being built for the show, the very fabric can serve as a source of inspiration for the overall design of a garment. When a fabric has a bold pattern, it is the designer’s responsibility to determine with the draper how that pattern will “collaborate” with the style lines of the costume. How can the repositioning of the motifs change the mood and character of the look? What other trims or fabrics can join the “conversation” of the look? Use this prompt to develop an understanding of how the same source and inspiration can inform different end results.
Objectives:
Use fabric as a source of artistic inspiration and to stimulate the imagination; analyze pattern, value and color to inform design; demonstrate visual communication skills; demonstrate accuracy and understanding of research methodologies
Activities:
Students will to use scale and shape to discover how these elements impact design; research specific period silhouettes; understand the human form, proportionally, for costume rendering and how the body and the motifs can work in harmony; practice the design process of: researching, generating ideas quickly, editing, then refining.
Steps:
Instructor assigns fabric sample and dress style.
Here are links to the ones I used (fabric and dress styles). It’s important to have actual 1/4 yard fabric samples as this allowed students to play with the fabric in full scale on a dress form. It is important to use dress patterns that include the cutting schematic so style lines are very clear.
Research (25 points- Due Class #1)
Using Western European fashion resources, locate supplemental research that shows other style ideas of your assigned dress pattern.
Thumbnails (60 points- Due Class #1)
Develop at least 4 different thumbnail sketches in rough color that use the same garment silhouette & style lines. Small adjustments to the dress style, such as pockets and neckline shape can be explored. The major element you are changing is how you use the fabric motifs; the addition of one other fabric is certainly permitted as you explore color, contrast and impact. Consider how fabric might be used differently on different body types and proportions.
Two complete designs (80 points- Due Class #3).
After peer feedback, refine your designs. Complete 2 designs showing two distinct interpretations of your source fabric. If you used other fabrics, be sure to include swatches (real preferred, digital sources ok)
Process Documentation (10 points- Due Class #3)
Document your process. Make this project “portfolio ready” with the addition of a few helpful bullet points that guide why you made the decisions that you made. Organize the research, thumbnails and any fabric “dissection” in support of the final designs.
When I assign this project again it will also provide an opportunity for a low stakes exploration of digital rendering techniques. This allows students to practice importing an image (the fabric) and using digital collage as a tool to develop the thumbnails and explore the motif placement.
The timing of this assignment also served as a fun “palette cleanser” before spring break providing students with a true break in the middle of the term.
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